Jan 28, 2015

Ripstik Chassis and Baking Aluminum

I'm rushing to get a deliverable out by Feb 2nd, so I've been lagging on documentation. But here's some of what I've been doing with the ripstik chassis:

I'm using eighth-inch 2024 aluminum plate for the body, originally going with a 2 layer shell design because I wasn't convinced that one layer would hold a person. I modeled sheet metal folding in Solidworks and waterjetted the flat pattern.

I chose 2024 instead of the more common 6061 aluminum alloy to facilitate bending. 6061 (especially the T-6 variety available to me) is extremely susceptible to cracking when bending. 2024 T-3 is doable, and is still readily machinable. T-3 and T-6 refers to the level of temper in the standard sheet. For me, lower temper is better for bending. 














Then, I put my cutouts on the bending brake and put in angles. I ended up needing a larger bending radius than I had planned for; turns out that the specific sheet I was using needs a bit more than the "thickness of part" rule of thumb.

In addition, turns out my 0.125" plate was just barely within the maximum thickness allowed in this brake. I had to throw around my body weight on the lever to get even a slight bend, and I wasn't looking forward to spending hours and hours to get the angles I wanted.

The internet tells me 2024 aluminum has an annealing temp (temperature at which it softens) of around 750°F, and a hardening temperature of around 300°F. My oven gets to 575°F+ on broil, so I stuck my plates in there for 2 hours, let cool to room temp (1 hour), and tried again.


This strategy worked reasonably well (beware of well-intentioned friends leaving your aluminum in the oven while baking cookies!) Only the narrow tube-holding plate cracked severely after the pseudo-annealing, and I was okay with cutting those off and waterjetting replacements.



Aluminum 2024 Recipe

        1. While oven is at room temperature, place aluminum on top shelves
        2. Set oven to broil
        3. Open the windows if necessary. (broiling aluminum smells much like hot glue)
        4. Wait 2 hours
        5. Turn oven off. Without removing aluminum, let rest for 1 hour
        6. Remove aluminum. May be warm to the touch.







Jan 7, 2015

LEGO Minifig

Photo post-processing done with Paint.NET's posterize feature 
they have hoodies!



To celebrate LEGO's collaboration with MIT's Media Lab, we were all invited to come eat dinner and play with blocks. One of the stations they had set up was "Make Yourself in Minifig Form," with suitcases full of pants, tops, heads, and accessories.

When I was a kid, LEGO girls only had one hairstyle! (Though this particular hair was probably Harry Potter's) And I didn't realize LEGO now made parts that fitted on the shoulder. Or that neck-parts existed. I remember making tiny Kleenex capes and scarves, but these are real plastic!

So I huddled at the "Kids Corner" with kids ages 3-43, only half listening to the Ninjago presentation on-stage (also really interesting,) searching for myself. A yellow zip-up jacket. Slate-colored jeans. Blue hoodie. Glasses face. Black messy hair. Green cross-body bag. Yup, that's pretty much me. Just add coffee.

LEGOs are great.



Me + coffee cup
good-cop/bad-cop head makes for interesting changes of expression
My photoshoot setup.
Everything's possible if you just believe in the macro setting!



2.670 (part 2)

Day 2 of How-To-Unsketchily-Use-A-Mill-And-Lathe was spent milling! Unfortunately, I completely borked my phone this morning, so no progress pics.

Basically we drilled a lot of holes. Lots of holes. It was fun watching the rest of my group (the three of them had never used a mill before) go from hesitantly stopping the spindle every time before moving the bed to barely even pausing to clear chips until the step was complete.

We also made a pocket, which was great. Everyone assumed I had done plenty of pockets before (this was my first manual one), so I was really happy to not make any mistakes. (I definitely spun the handcranks a few times before starting to remind myself which way was clockwise!)

Tapped stuff, brushed finish, assembly, boom! Flashlight.





I still like the knurl the best.

Jan 5, 2015

2.670 (part 1)

So shiny! Today was day 1 of 2.670 (How to Properly Use a Lathe and a Mill) spent turning an aluminum flashlight handle from scratch.


Step 1: Face a piece of stock and turn the first diameter


Step 2: Turn more diameters, cut a groove with the parting tool, and make tapers with the bevel!
(I hadn't used a dedicated beveling tool before :D) 

Optional step 2.5: admire the shininess.





Step 3: Use a die; round off threads while waiting for everyone else to go.
Step 4: Drill a hole. Drill it again (so that's how you make flat bottoms!)


Step 5: Can't have too much shiny
Step 6: Make a knurl (my favorite part)
Step 7: Lop off excess so it becomes 2" tall (adorable!)
Step 8: Become hypnotized by the shininess.

Next up: Milling a Flashlight Head!